An Important Art Deco diamond bow brooch
An Important Art Deco diamond bow brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels, the two hundred and eighty-seven old European-cut diamonds estimated to weigh 17 carats in total, millegrain-set in a flexible and openwork design mount in the form of a bow, all made in platinum, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, maker’s marks for Rubel Frères, French platinum assay marks and inventory number 31586, circa 1925, measuring approximately 8.5 x 7cm, gross weight 36.1 grams.
Jean & Robert Rubel, originally from Hungary, settled in Paris and opened a workshop near place Vendome at 22 rue Vivienne in 1915. Their extraordinary skills and craftsmanship were quickly recognised by the most renowned jewellery houses such as Van Cleef & Arpels, Ostertag and Lacloche Frères. Van Cleef & Arpels began working with Rubel Freres in 1923. They crafted some of their most iconic pieces, such as the magnificent ruby, diamond and emerald ‘Roses’ bracelet for which they were awarded a Grand Prix in the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes. The above piece is one of the early works that Rubel Freres made for Van Cleef & Arpels.