A Victorian Holbeinesque emerald, diamond and pearl suite

A Victorian Holbeinesque emerald, diamond and pearl suite

Description

A Victorian Holbeinesque emerald, diamond and pearl suite, consisting of a necklace and a pair of earrings, the necklace with five octagonal-cut emeralds graduating in size from the centre, each surrounded by a frame with red enamel decorations and embellished with small old-cut diamonds, connected with snake-chain and four festoons, each festoon centrally-set with a small emerald suspending a pearl drop, the three larger emeralds suspending an oval polychrome enamelled medallion each set with an emerald, old mine and rose-cut diamonds, and embellished with natural pearls, terminating to gem-set and enamelled drops, accompanied by matching earrings with wire fittings, the emeralds estimated to weigh 15 carats in total, accompanied by GCS report stating to be of Colombian origin, all mounted in yellow gold, with original fitted case, circa 1860, measuring 39.5 x 8.3cm, gross weight 79.1 grams.

A fabulous Holbeinesque suite. Holbeinesque is a term used to describe Victorian jewellery that was made in the style of the Renaissance, particularly inspired by the Northern Renaissance and the paintings of Hans Holbein. Holbein produced sketches of the jewellery worn at the Tudor court, and the sketches were used as reference points by Victorian jewellery designers and craftsmen. Holbeinesque jewellery was characterised by stones mounted in gold with bright enamel work, from which often hung drops, and this suite is the perfect example of this. The suite features lush green emeralds, which contrast wonderfully with the red enamel decorations around. The oval medallions each feature a subtle quatrefoil shape within, adding intricate detail, and the natural pearls bring a touch of femininity to the bold and striking piece. This kind of jewellery was worn extensively in the 1860’s, and this suite perfectly demonstrates the skilled workmanship of the jeweller. The yellow gold provides a luxurious contrast to the verdant emeralds and reflects the opulent style of jewellery made in the Victorian period.